WH Chronicle No. 1.32

March 27, 2011

My grandmother passed away this week.  Mimi was my last grandparent to depart, and it was especially disheartening to be so far away from my family.  But in lieu of my presence, I sent some memories and reflections to be read at the funeral.  I've included them in this week's Chronicle.  I attempted to capture smoke with my bare hands by writing about Mimi, but I perhaps the effort was appreciated. 

Other news here on the African front: Carolyn, kids, and Tom are off to Zanzibar for the week.  They will be in charge of next week's report.  The peace and quiet in our house is very unfamiliar. 

Daris


One of Mimi’s favorite poems:
When I'm An Old Lady
by Joanne Bailey Baxter

When I'm an old lady, I'll live with each kid,
And bring so much happiness just as they did.
I want to pay back all the joy they've provided.
Returning each deed! Oh, they'll be so excited!
(When I'm an old lady and live with my kids...)

I'll write on the walls with reds, whites, and blues,
And bounce on the furniture.....wearing my shoes.
I'll drink from the carton and then leave it out.
I'll stuff all the toilets and oh, how they'll shout!
(When I'm an old lady and live with my kids...)

When they're on the phone and just out of reach,
I'll get into things like sugar and bleach.
Oh, they'll snap their fingers and then shake their head,
And when that is done, I'll hide under the bed.
(When I'm an old lady and live with my kids...)

When they cook dinner and call me to eat,
I'll not eat my green beans or salad or meat.
I'll gag on my okra, spill milk on the table,
And when they get angry...I'll run....if I'm able!
(When I'm an old lady and live with my kids...)

I'll sit close to the TV., through the channels I'll click
I'll cross both eyes just to see if they stick.
I'll take off my socks and throw one away,
And play in the mud 'til the end of the day!
(When I'm an old lady and live with my kids...)

And later in bed, I'll lay back and sigh,
I'll thank God in prayer and then close my eyes.
My kids will look down with a smile slowly creeping,
And say with a groan, "She's so sweet when she's sleeping!"


When Mimi first read that poem to me, I thought she had written it herself.   She loved that poem.

Mimi loved to tell stories.  
We all will remember her enthusiastic tales of family history, ancestors, as well as her time-honored fables, skits and poems.  She regaled us with her youthful experiences of life on the farm, and daily walks to the schoolhouse, which interestingly enough, resembled her most requested bedtime story, The Three Billy Goats Gruff.

But perhaps the best story is the one about a little old lady, named Mimi.  Of course, Mimi wasn’t always old, but her youth has transcended your narrator’s reference.
 
In the beginning Mimi was a loving grandmother.  She thoroughly enjoyed the company of her three granddaughters, and never showed annoyance for childhood curiosity nor tired from our endless energy.   Laurie, Patti, and I were blessed with ‘Mimi Summer Camps’, weekends and holidays spent on the peaceful farm outside of Lometa.  Mimi approached each occasion with us as if she were a professional activities coordinator for the busiest of cruise ships.  She indulged us with games of checkers, plaster hand prints, picnics on Biscuit Rock, needle-pointing pillows, and a seasonal favorite, Jack Horner pie gift boxes at Christmas.   She took us swimming in the stock tank and to the creek on the old Godwin place--both of which required her to perform a thorough de-leeching afterwards.   To maintain respectability and reclaim any lost ground from leeches or coif-buried cockleburs, she employed Lavern--to shave, sheer, or trim the errant hairs on her young Godwin representatives.  And when the wind died down and the hot bugs sang, she directed us to find relief from sweltering heat within the fresh peach juice running down our chins, assisting her with homemade ice cream or simply hogging the swamp cooler breezes.     These pastoral experiences and memories were divinely offered through Mimi.  She stamped an indelible mark on our youth and the only ill moment for us, and her, was the time to say, ‘Goodbye’.

Goodbyes are difficult.  She told me several times about what I said to her at Umpaw’s funeral when I was only 5:   “Mimi, I know exactly how you feel.  It’s just like you want to sit in the corner and curl up into a ball.” I assume she found peace in that sentiment, because I know that’s how I feel today.

But back to our story…

Much to Mimi’s chagrin, those three adorable granddaughters became grandteenagers.   Mimi lamented that with age we would become too busy for our summer visits.  The sadness she expressed pained me just as much as the thought of our youthful adventures ending.   So much so, that I made a naïve promise I could not keep, “Mimi, I’ll always spend my summers with you.”

 But Mimi knew.

She faithfully endured our teen years.  Her loyalty was not deterred by any haughty teenage attitudes.  She attended football games, horseshows, basketball games, and music concerts, but perhaps her devotion backfired as horsecamps and bandcamps eventually replaced our beloved “Mimi camps”. 

After outlasting her second round of teenage drivers, University tribulations, and the parade of boyfriends, Mimi’s patience was rewarded with the happy weddings of her granddaughters.  As always, she got all gussied-up, applied her Jergens hand lotion, a fresh layer of Aqua Net and spritely attended those festive events.  For Patti’s wedding she even gussied me up with an unsolicited haircut.  Wedding album documentation demonstrated Mimi’s deficits in Cosmetology. 

When it came time for me to marry, Mimi proclaimed about Tom, “Seems like such a nice young man, it’s a shame he can’t afford a haircut.”  Before our wedding, she offered him her scissorly services, but knowing my own testimony about a cleaved coiffure, he politely declined.

And then, of course, came round three of children to love and cherish.  Six beautiful great-grandkids entertained Mimi with their youthful curiosity and childhood antics.  The youngest of the clan, Daryl and Sam, loved to act as Mimi’s chauffeur by driving her to the mailbox on her scooter.  Despite the 88 year age gap their time together was relished by all parties involved. 

Over time the family visits were not as frequent but Mimi still busied herself by sculpturing her own life and aspirations.  She wrote several books by researching and laboring endless hours; all for the sake of preserving regional history and family lineage.  She also beautified, maintained and preserved local cemeteries.   She traveled the globe and was forever supportive of us doing the same.  Hence, today, my family is living in another world a hemisphere away.   Though our time here is cherished, it is sad to be away from our family on this occasion.

But Mimi knew.

Years turned to decades.  Mimi grew older and her body became less cooperative.  She would remark, “Getting old is a lot of hard work.”  So, instead of continuing to managing the farm, she began to read more and travel less.  And all too soon, even the simplest tasks were less available to her.

Now one might think that this story is winding down, but rather, I’d like to suggest that we’re coming to another deficiency in the omniscience of your story teller. 

As Mimi appears to us to depart, I imagine an open-armed reunion of family, full of joyous welcome, awaiting her.  The love and warmth she feels dwarfs all the grief endured from their previous adieus.    And now, I take heart, for when our own opportunity arises, she will be there to ensure we receive the same beautiful and blessed reception.
We love her so much.
And Mimi knows.




Parable of Immortality
Author: Henry Van Dyke
I am standing upon the seashore.
A ship at my side spreads her white sails to the morning breeze
and starts for the blue ocean.
She is an object of beauty and strength,
and I stand and watch until at last she hangs
like a speck of white cloud
just where the sea and sky come down to mingle with each other.
Then someone at my side says,
" There she goes! "
Gone where?
Gone from my sight . . . that is all.
She is just as large in mast and hull and spar
as she was when she left my side
and just as able to bear her load of living freight
to the place of destination.
Her diminished size is in me, not in her.
And just at the moment
when someone at my side says,
" There she goes! "
there are other eyes watching her coming . . .
and other voices ready to take up the glad shout . . .
" Here she comes! "

Mimi with Daryl and Sam

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WH Chronicle No. 1.31

Ok, Thanks to my technical prowess...it's being delivered--finally. 
March 20, 2011

Classes start tomorrow.  We're enjoying some welcomed rain.  This 'blessing from the sky' is accompanied by the gentle thunders that coax peaceful slumber. But we’ve had a relatively pleasant week being insulated from all the world’s troublesome problems.   Not much of it has affected the rank and file Tanzanian. 

 This week we traveled to the Meserani Snake Park.  Tom refrained from buying any swim trunks that had “Snake Park” printed on them.   The camel rides were closed due to mud.

Sam and friendly snake.

Daryl and a restrained baby Nile Crocodile.


Deadly Green Mamba

Africa's most feared snake: the Black Mamba

We finalized our grades this week.  All grades have to be approved by the department, and then the Academic Board.   This is where they scrutinize the ratio of A, B, C’s for each class.  They are very concerned about academic honesty and grade inflation, all of which I appreciate.    The challenge lies in transforming the regular western grading scale to the Tanzanian one:

A= 100-80
B+=70-79
B=60-69
C=50-59
D=40-49

If there are too many high or low letter marks, the professor is asked to ‘normalize’ the grades with no indication of appropriate percentages or relevant mean score. This is especially tricky because their grading scale is skewed to favor high letters. Unfortunately, this scrutiny has standardized the grade reporting to mostly C’s, D’s, and F’s.    A’s can be frequently met with skepticism and often need justification (with test scores and class exams).  This is the administration requiring an explanation of what appears to be a seemingly impossible event—or perhaps, worse--the sign of a terrible teacher.  
Our supervisor, a great teacher, was once admonished for advocating for his students.   The idea of lifting up University students with education, in order to be successful, is apparently not viable concept.  Instead it is often re-interpreted as a dishonest endeavor that reveals corruption.   Knowledge is power and those with it are not often interested in sharing.       

This coming week we are  looking forward to the arrival of Carolyn  from California and attending "Mama Africa"—Tanzania’s answer to Cirque de Soleil. 

“Enlighten the people generally, and tyranny and oppressions of body and mind will vanish like evil spirits at the dawn of day."
Thomas Jefferson

"Anyone who says sunshine brings happiness has never danced in the rain." Unknown

 Discoing in the drizzle,
Daris

Transportation: Notice the guy hanging out the door on the left side.

I wonder if the windows work properly.
Daryl and Mr. Twinkie

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WH Chronicle No. 1.29


March 13, 2011 (Apologies for the slightly long entry--but we have some catching-up to do!)
It’s the break between semesters, so no students, no electricity, no gas in the generator, no internet.  They save money then complain when the on-campus faculty fail to submit their grades to the online system, and then delay the start of the second semester.  

The last week of finals was plagued with student medical issues.  They were dropping like wadudu inside a thunderhead of DOOM (bugs in Raid).   One with malaria, two with tooth abscesses.   Malaria disappears in 24 hours with treatment, but left untreated, you’re being swept out with the cockroaches. The problem lies in the fact that Tanzanians like to pretend they are well (and don’t have $3 for treatment ).   “I am walking--how can I be sick?” is a typical phrase about illness.   One of our students had such a bad tooth abscess that the dentist scolded me about the poor guy’s EYE being in serious jeopardy.  Both students need root canals and we offered to assist with the cost.  Left to strictly Tanzanian channels these poor chaps would have to go to a dentist with an “Ol’ Sparky” type chair—straps and all-- to have their teeth ripped out of their head.  This is evident by their lack of teeth and fear of going to the dentist.   We explained that this dentist would not hurt them and that teeth are a really good thing to have—esp. if you are a brass player.

Daryl and Sam went fishing last week.   They departed the house with their little hats, pants rolled up, skipping along, holding hands with the Tanzanian girls who know the base of the mountain like the back of their Swahili books (well, if they had books, that is).

The Tanzanian girls tossed Daryl and Sam up and over the concrete wall (never mind there is a gate 100 yards away), scurried over themselves, and then they all stomped through the forest until they arrived at the waist-high river.   The girls would muddy-up the waters before throwing in the net.  After they became bored with catching scrawny little fish, they went swimming.    I was comforted by the girls reporting that they held on very tight to Sam.  Even though Sam can swim, their caution was warranted because Tanzanians frequently can't swim.  When everyone returned home, they were all caked in dry mud while grinning wildly.   I can’t help but wonder how these experiences will be reflected through the colorful lenses of time and memory. 

VACATION
Our vacation to Dar es Salaam was nothing like we imagined, but perhaps it was more spectacular in an ‘adventure’ kind of way.   

The day before our departure, while returning from the dentist, our car overheated.  Randy was very concerned about us traveling so far in our rattle bucket and insisted on us taking his Toyota Land Cruiser (“Ahh….AC,” I think to myself).  There were also some music department purchases to be made in Dar, so it was easily justifiable.    

So we packed the car with luggage as well as two of our students that were also headed to Dar es Salaam.  2 hours down the road the AC belt broke—I was so disappointed about having to ride the next 8 hours in dust/dirt and heat that I didn't even bother to wonder if the fan belt is going to break, too.  Well, it did; right in the middle of nowhere.  Our student got on his phone and began walking down the road, within a few minutes he returned riding on the back of a pikipiki (motorbike) with a small army of mechanics, also on pikipikis, following him.  1 hour of men hanging out under the hood of the car, $8,  and we were back on the road, again.  Except this part of the road, we were told, is one of the most dangerous stretches of highway in Tanzania, so they built a hospital here.

As we entered the city, Tom turned the driving over to the student that has a commercial license--which also doubles as a Medal of Bravery.  After observing his driving, I began to think that maneuvering an automobile in the city is more about style and improvisation than following any regulations.  It is a mere recommendation that you drive on the left,  but certainly not necessary.   Driving in the US would be akin to performing classical music whereas driving here resembles ‘heavy metal’,  screechy noises and screaming profanity all inclusive.   The horn honk also has multiple purposes and techniques from the short ‘mosquito swat’ to the ‘double swat’ as well as the ‘permablast’ that attempts to drill an audio initiated passageway through the car parked in front of you.
Ever wonder about 'speedy delivery' in gridlock?  These are occasionally found on sidewalks and medians.

The next morning our students accompanied us to the embassy.  I think their thrill would have been equaled only by teens going backstage to a ‘boy band’. Our embassy representatives treated them like VIPs and gave them gifts which made it a really special moment.

After leaving the coolth of the embassy, the rest of the day was filled with errands and sitting in the intolerable Dar gridlocked traffic—without any AC—and remember, Dar es Salaam is only a few degrees cooler than the surface of the sun.  This, in turn, inspired some car sickness and a few productive barf stops.   At one point we returned to our mobile kiln to find it booted by a private agency that has carte blanche to boot any car.  Of course, some loud Swahili, flailing arms and a trip to the manager’s office easily resolved it.
Sam waiting for the boot to be removed from our car.

Over the next day, we made our music purchases, had the car’s AC repaired,  went swimming, went to visit our students’ families, visited Bagamoyo School of the Arts, walked on the beach, visited University of Dar es Salaam, and met many very nice people.

Departing Dar es Salaam and aiming for Dodoma, Tom had taken over the wheel for only a minute and then “WHAM!”   An Indian lady rammed us from the side, removing the mudflap.   Our student hollers to Tom, “Twende! Twende!” (Go! Go!) and begins berating women drivers (not inexperienced drivers—mind you).  Glad to know this is an international pastime.   

After 8 hours to Dodoma to visit Ed and Debra we finally get some ‘west and welaxation’. Since this is the center of Tanzania it has been designated the capitol city.  It is a beautiful little town housing the University of Dodoma which will be the largest University in East Africa when finished. 
Simba Rock in Dodoma
Hike to Simba Rock
Top of Simba Rock overlooking Dodoma.  UDom being built in the distance.

 Wrapping up our terrific time with the Lloyds, we loaded up our loot and began our tumultuous trip back to Arusha on the infamous “Road to Dodoma”.  This road (term used loosely) is described as “usually passable”, “4x4s only”.   Imagine the roughest mountainy pasture road you’ve ever driven—with top speeds of 30 mph—then drive it for 6. 5 hours.   We laughed about arriving home with only a steering wheel between Tom’s white knuckles  as everything else rattled off into oblivion.   On our arrival home, Randy seemed quite happy to see us, but I’m sure this emotion was infused with the relief of seeing his car (mostly) intact.
On-coming traffic on the "Road to Dodoma"


To Sum it up:
40 Hours in the car (in 6 days)
Two shredded belts
$75 new Toyota belts/$2 labor for installation
1 broken shock absorber
6 Barf stops
12 Pepto Pills
6 Motrin
4 Dramamine
2000 kilometers
4 Squished Bananas
1 speeding ticket
1 parking boot
1 Lost mud flap
1 pair ‘disposed of’ underwear
1 business card from the Mayor of Dodoma
4 Adventures of a Lifetime



I have a couple of heartfelt apologies to issue to you loved ones back home.  First, I finally found the ‘lost emails’ that you all had been sending!  In my techno wizardlessness, I forgot to activate the email account.  But it was so much fun to read what everyone had said—from praising the episodes with exploding kitchen devices to warning Sam not to dress up like a banana for Halloween.  They were terrific—and thank you!

Disclaimer:  I comment rather honestly on our adventures, and included in this are the cirrus-like thoughts wafting through my mind.  For those who miss us most and worry that we like it too much; don’t fret—Tom has already been airfare shopping, and they are scheduled to be home for Bear Valley Music Festival.  I’ll be right behind them.

“It’s a rough road that leads to the heights of greatness.”  Seneca

“It has always been my private conviction that any man who pits his intelligence against a fish and loses has it coming.”  ~John Steinbeck

“Many men go fishing all of their lives without knowing that it is not fish they are after.”  ~Henry David Thoreau

“Fishing is boring, unless you catch an actual fish, and then it is disgusting.”  ~Dave Barry

“Every tooth in a man's head is more valuable than a diamond.”  ~Miguel de Cervantes, Don Quixote, 1605


Brushing only the teeth that I want to keep,
Daris
Advertisement for condoms.  Another university billboard advertises, "Graduate with A's not AIDS."
Mobile Gourmet--just like Austin! 


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WH Chronicle No. 1.29

Feb 27,2011


A warm breeze sways the canopy of banana leaves and reveals a contented blue sky with some fluffy clouds.  In the distance a baby cries, then stops.  I imagine Mama scooping him up while kissing his wet, chubby, brown cheek.   It’s a peaceful Sunday afternoon. Our Ipod sings, “Sonny Boy” by Tony Bennett competing gently with the Swahili hymns wafting from the chapel.  

No gigs tonight, no worries except what’s for supper.  Perhaps some Wick Fowler’s 2-Alarm Chili?—by virtue of Mikal and Tina.  We’ll share with the neighbors, as I’m starting to believe no gift is worth having unless it's shared.    Family dinners are the norm—it’s nice.    Of course, having been been deprived of this luxury for years (because evening engagements), my appreciation has been nurtured.   

We had a spectacular adventure hiking to a waterfall at the base of Mt. Meru yesterday.  The scenery of this area rivals Hawaii.   Even though a moderately strenuous hike, the kids marched the whole way without a single piggyback ride.  It was like graduating from the diaper stage all over again.  We went with our Tanzanian students and some American study abroad students.  The fatigued Americans commented that our kids inspired their last bit of stamina.   The Tanzanians all could have carried an American student without losing their breath.

My students still occasionally reveal a few details of their lives.  I’ve been told that they usually keep their troubles to themselves and we’ll only learn a tenth of what they endure.   Tom and I help pay hospital bills, cafeteria debts, and chip in for burial fees of family members.  Our gardener’s cow died.  We had even provided for ‘Nyeusi’s’ health-care prior to her demise.  We’ll help with a new cow, as that was the family’s only source of milk for their two little boys.
 
Because of all of this, Tom’s decided that he, alone, is the Gross National Product of Tanzania.   I reminded him that it’s true only on Tuesday nights, after beans and rice for lunch, when he’s the RGNBP (Really Gross Natural By-Product of Tanzania).  

One student, after being enticed by hot chai and cashews, began telling me a few details of his life.  He’s Maasai.  His mother, younger brother, younger sister, and her husband all still live in a dung hut with no electricity.  His older brother does the hard labor of a miner and has yet to be paid.  His father passed away a few years ago.   When our student began working as a primary teacher he had a life-threatening bout of malaria.  At that point he vowed to obtain a higher level of education in order to assist his family and open an English school for Maasai children.  His family sold their last cow for him to attend his first year of college here.   The guilt, reality, and hardships that our students suffer continue to be a real inspiration for us and a true testament to the human spirit.

As we come to the halfway point of our time here, it’s difficult for me to conceptualize the future after our departure from Tanzania.  I think Sam, Daryl, and Tom all have visions of returning to unlimited video games, junk food, Taco Cabana, football and beer;  resulting in endless happiness.  As for me, I feel as if I’m navigating at night with my headlamp pointed backwards.  But I guess I would prefer this to a clear view of my own hamster wheel.
  

As we prepare for our musicians friends to come concertize in Tanzania, I think I've secured affordable housing and transportation for everyone.
I wonder if they have room service.
How do you play trombone with a 35mph headwind?  Speed bumps?  


“As for the future, your task is not to foresee it, but to enable it.”
Antoine de Saint-Exupery

“The future is an opaque mirror.  Anyone who tries to look into it sees nothing but the dim outlines of an old and worried face.”  ~Jim Bishop
"Diapers are like politicians.  They both need changing regularly for the same reason."

“If I don’t get a plate of nachos soon, I’m think I’m going to die.” Daryl Hale

Enabling the burnt chili,
Daris

Top portion of the 300 ft waterfall at base of Mt. Meru

The bottom of the waterfall.

A portion of the hike to the waterfall.

Tom and Sam on the cliff above the pool. 








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WH Chronicle No. 1.28


Feb 20th, 2011

What rights?

When I typed the chronologically-preceding entry we had internet, but suspiciously could not access blogger, gmail or other various websites.  When I used a different IP address to approach these sites, I was attacked by a green screen stating, “Denied by CLEAROS”.   Evidently, the University had installed a content filter denying access to all web-based email, blogs and any search containing the words ‘proxy server’.   Unfortunately (or perhaps fortunately) for the students even turnitin.com, the anti-plagiarism website to which they submit their assignments for my class, was blocked.  

I called Randy, my super-dupervisor, and he immediately began notifying the IT department.  It appears that they were trying to limit precious bandwidth and claimed that they didn’t think CLEAROS would affect anyone, but they will address the situation.   But how did they arrive at this grossly inappropriate assumption?  Do they think that if students are accessing the internet then they are only downloading pornography, or worse, American movies?   Is there no need for students to access email, regardless of the fact that the University sends notifications via email?  As Ian always says, “If it walks like a duck and talks like a duck….”  But bandwidth conservation smells conveniently like a duck named ‘censorship’, which treaded through a puddle of incompetence along the way.   Randy was in a less irksome state and just reminded me that the music department could possibly be two decades ahead of the rest of the University.   It appears to more of an honest mistake than I had originally imagined.  But, I realize that as a U.S. citizen, I've definitely taken my right to 'free speech' for granted.  

"You can cage the singer, but not the song."  Harry Belafonte

Missy and Laura are now safely home.   It’s been reported that they enjoyed a trip of a lifetime, despite the travel snafus described below. 

We attended Mama Maasai’s Royal Wedding—glad we were here to take part in it.  Angelika and Erwin are quite an adorable couple. 
Erwin and Angelika of "Help for Maasai" fame.


Angelika's girls (originally orphans) with a wedding gift from a guest.
Tom beautifully playing horn for the happy couple.
He also composed a wonderful love song that Angelika sang to Erwin.

Maasai Choir at the wedding.
Ed, Debra, and Daris


Feb 18th, 2011

We’ve had an explosive week in Tanzania!

I made the mistake of announcing my surprise at accomplishing all of this week’s tightly scheduled functions.   Jinx.   Six  full days  of hosting embassy and personal guests through flights, drivers, school tours, safaris, concerts, rehearsals, hotels, orphanages,  all of which managed to flow smoothly despite the tight time tolerances—and in Tanzania that is just short of miraculous.   On the last day Laura asked about confirming her International KLM flight departing Tanzania and I responded, “There’s no need because they are like clockwork.  KLM arrives each evening unless the world implodes. “   Let me just say, it’s really stupid to tempt the fates with global implosion. 

So from Zanzibar we three ladies arrived in Dar es Salaam.  I flew to Arusha, leaving Laura and Missy at the Dar es Salaam airport, and marveled again at the flawless unfolding of the week’s events.   The next morning I awoke to a text message from the U.S. Embassy Warden warning about explosions in Dar es Salaam—near the airport—all flights were cancelled.   While wondering if Laura and Missy had departed, I received a text from Laura that appeared to be composed from the beak of a wet and angry hen.   All the KLM employees in Dar es Salaam were instructed to go home, but they somehow forgot to tell the 300 passengers sleeping on the tarmac that their flight was cancelled.  Missy was now sick and puking.   Oh, we spent endless hours on congested cell phone networks trying to confirm their flight home.   I flagellated myself with the thoughts, ‘I was the one that signed up for the hardships of a developing country—not them—they are just tourists.  Why must they endure this?’ 

Turns out that the explosions were from an old armory, i.e. bomb dump, that the TZ president stated was no longer in existence.   Surprise.  Unfortunately, the rusty bomb explosion killed over 20 (mostly military) and injured many more.   There were reports of people searching for missing children in the neighborhood.  

Well, as I’m typing this, Laura coherently texts me with a calm finger to state they have arrived in Amsterdam and are comfortably on their way home.  Missy is eating some crackers, soda and is feeling better.  I’m so glad.

While in Zanzibar (prior to implosion), Laura, Missy and I had a terrific time on the beach.  We also met up with a fellow Fulbrighter from Baltimore.  She is documenting cultish phenomena on the island that includes being diagnosed with spirits and then the treatment or management of those maladies via group hypnosis therapy which includes hallucinogenic incense and free drinks.   There are several groups on the island that meet on Wednesday nights.  They are all composed of women and gay men.   Now remember, the island is 98% Muslim where alcohol and homosexually are both forbidden (more like Southern Baptist than anyone would like to admit).  Our friend was diagnosed with a spirit by a fundi (an expert in anything, we have fundi plumbers, fundi car repair, etc), and therefore invited to participate, though she must hide her cameras as not to scare the spirits.  It is said that Zanzibar is nothing as it seems—Islam is merely a façade on an island full of pagan partiers. 

Last night Makumira Music Department provided entertainment for 500 international coffee growers, all of whom were enjoying a plush convention in Arusha.  The posh evening materialized into a really nice gig for our students.  During the break we were treated to food and adult beverages.  Since most of our students are older the alcohol is not an issue, but when I inquired about the drinking age of Tanzania they all burst into laughter.  Perhaps they thought it should be illegal to impose a drinking age in Tanzania; as if it were impairing one’s ability to numb the pain of living with endless corruption.  I’m not sure the point of their humor, but they finally told me that there is not a drinking age here (though, I later learned it is 18).  I think Tanzania is still several decades away from ‘Nanny-statedom’.

Perhaps it was the ‘liquid courage’ speaking, but on the drive home several of our students erupted into obscure bushland fables of ladies leaving and people perishing.   Every other phrase was in either Swahili or Maasai followed by, “I don’t know the translation for that.”    Finally, one of them clarified in a ‘direct American’ dialect and stated, “We really don’t want you to leave.” 

Though flattered, I have to say I have multiple emotional reactions to such statements.  As they bicker over who carries my backpack and who gets the pictures of our kids, part of me recognizes the dangers or downsides of being highly esteemed.  I also see the urgency in fleeing before they realize we don’t shit ice cream. 

But what the students have never had is an advocate.   I only do what my teachers did for me but it is so contrary to most Tanzanians’ University experience.  I can remember how important it is to have people believe in you, especially at times when it’s difficult to believe in yourself.  Hopefully I can offer what they need, even though I always feel just shy of skills I need to do this. 

Confession:  We’re addicted to the Bop It toy that Betsy sent us.  I currently have the high score.
Good news:  Carolyn Kendrick will be staying with us for March and April, and Lizzie will be here for the month of May!!  It is such an honor to be personally introducing our wonderful acquaintances in Tanzania to our dear friends from home. 

“The true teacher defends his pupils against his own personal influence.  He inspires self-distrust.  He guides their eyes from himself to the spirit that quickens him.  He will have no disciple.”  ~Amos Bronson Alcott

“When you love people and have the desire to make a profound, positive impact upon the world, then you will have accomplished a meaningful life.”  Sasha Azevedo

“The dream begins with a teacher who believes in you, who tugs and pushes and leads you to the next plateau, sometimes poking you with a sharp stick called "truth”.”  ~Dan Rather

“The teacher who is indeed wise does not bid you to enter the house of his wisdom but rather leads you to the threshold of your mind.”  ~Kahlil Gibran

Looking for ice cream cones,
Daris



Photos from last week's concert:
Tom assisting the 'drum corp' for the traditional dances.


Sam participating in a traditional hunting dance.

Daryl impressively executing the ladies portion of the hunting dance.

Our new shirts.
The decorations for the concert hall were from our backyard.


Daris in a traditional harvest dance.
The entrance to the Assembly Hall (abbreviated Ass Hall) serving as the performance venue.
Notice the head shots of our students lining the entrance way.  That's a first for most of them. 

Two important performers.

Men's Choir
(Only 3 women in the School of Music)

Traditional marimba piece performed in the traditional dress.
They make and tune their own instruments.

Daryl in the children's choir next to one of our lady students.

The kids sporting their new mustaches.

Tom settling in...

Sam and his new pet, the giant African land snail.

'Gary'

Laura, Daris, Missy

Gig at Stiggy's (aka Stigbucks)

Laura and her first night in the 'net' and Hot Wheels covers.

Laura and Missy attending our concert.
Gig for 500 people at an international coffee convention.

Until we have internet again.....

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